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Korean Braised Goat and Dumplings

The following recipe is an excerpt from Cook Like a Local

Serves 6

As a chef, if you’re lucky, a dish that you create becomes a “signature” dish—that one item on the menu that is the most popular with guests and the most talked-about in the media (and the most Instagrammed). You don’t always have control over which dish captures this social energy. It may not even be your personal favorite, but suddenly it becomes part of your identity.

This is my signature dish, and I still love it, even after serving thousands of bowls a month and cooking hundreds of pounds of rice cakes. Its most obvious point of inspiration is tteokbokki,  the Korean street snack of chewy rice cakes and spicy gochujang sauce. But our version has absorbed some of the other cultural influences around us. Though it strays from the Korean recipes that I’ve seen, it’s authentic to my experience of Houston—where tinder braised goat meat is a fixture of our taquerias, some of which are located right across the street from Kong Ju Rice Bakery, where I pick up fresh rice cakes (along with kimchi and freshly pressed sesame oil). These foods exist together in our city, on that block, so it made sense to me to make them exist together on a plate.

Ingredients

For the Goat

3-pound piece of bone-in goat leg

2 medium onions, roughly chopped

3 medium carrots, roughly chopped

6 celery stalks, roughly chopped

6 garlic cloves

For the Stew

¼ cup vegetable oil

8 ounces cylindrical Korean rice cakes, cut into 1-inch pieces

½ medium white onion, thinly sliced

½ cup gochujang

¼ lager beer

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, chilled

¼ cup sliced scallion

Step 1

Braise the goat: Put the goat leg in a large stockpot and add the onions, carrots, celery, and garlic. Fill the pot with water so that the ingredients are completely submerged. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a gentle simmer over very low heat. Cover tightly and let simmer for at least 7 hours, until very tender, checking occasionally to see if you need to add more water to keep the goat submerged.

Step 2

Drain, discarding the liquid and aromatics. When the goat is cool enough to handle, pull off all the meat, discarding any bones or tough cartilage. Set aside. (The pulled meat will keep in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.)

Step 3

Prepare the stew: In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat until shimmering-hot. Add the rice cakes, spreading them out in a single layer. Cook, stirring occasionally, for about 6 minutes—let the dumplings get a little bit of golden brown color in spots, and they might puff slightly. (Some recipes call for boiling rice cakes, but I much prefer the texture they get when pan-fried— they’ll be crispy on the outside and soft and chewy on the inside.)

Step 4

Add the sliced onion and the pulled goat meat and cook, stirring, until the mixture is well combined and warm throughout, and the onion has softened, about 8 minutes. Add the gochujang and beer and cook, stirring to combine, for 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, add the butter, and gently stir it in to enrich the sauce. Divide the stew among bowls and garnish with the scallion. Serve immediately.

Sugar, spice, and everything…gochujang.

Vietnamese Steak Au Poivre

The following recipe is an excerpt from Cook Like a Local

Serves 4

A few years back, I had the great fortune of visiting the island of Phú Quốc in Vietnam, famous for its fish sauce production. The island’s other famous export, I learned, is green peppercorns. Immediately I thought of steak au poivre as the perfect dish to showcase these two special ingredients together. Sadly, fresh green peppercorns are hard to find in the States, but this dish is still delicious with black peppercorns. If possible, toast whole peppercorns in a dry skillet and grind them for this dish. It may seem like an unnecessary step, but the pepper is one of the anchor ingredients here, and it will be so much more fragrant and flavorful if you take the time to do it this way.

Ingredients

For the Sauce

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 medium yellow onion, sliced

6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 cinnamon s:ck

2 star anise pods

½ cup fish sauce (ideally Red Boat Fish Sauce)

1 cup packed dark brown sugar

2 quarts beef stock

2 cups heavy cream

1 tablespoon crushed black pepper

For the Steak

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

4 (6-ounce) beef tenderloin fillets or your favorite steak

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Step 1

Make the sauce: in a large saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat until it shimmers. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring, until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the cinnamon and star anise and stir until fragrant. Add the fish sauce and brown sugar and whisk to combine. Bring to a simmer—the mixture will resemble caramel—and let cook for about 2 minutes to reduce slightly. Add the beef stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and let simmer until the liquid has reduced to one-quarter of the volume, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Add the heavy cream and let reduce by half, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in the crushed black pepper. (You’ll have more sauce than you need for the steaks; use the leftovers as you would gravy. It’ll be delicious over any cut of meat or poured over sauteed mushrooms.)

Step 2

Prepare the steaks: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees fahrenheit. Place a heavy-bottomed, ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat and add the oil. Season each steak generously with salt and pepper. When the oil begins to smoke, add the steaks to the pan in an even layer and sear until browned on the bottom. (Do this in batches If necessary to prevent crowding.). Turn the steaks over and transfer the pan to the oven. Cook until the steaks reach your desired temperature (8 to 10 minutes for medium-rare).

Step 3

Remove the steaks from the pan and let rest on a plate for 5 to 10 minutes (10 is better, but impatience is real in my house). Serve the steaks with a ladle of the sauce over the top.

Sugar, spice, and everything…gochujang.

Green Curry Pancakes

The following recipe is an excerpt from Cook Like a Local

Serves 4

You can keep your green eggs and ham; I’ll take green pancakes.

Well, these aren’t actually green in color, but green curry is the key. My favorite flavors and ingredients to cook with are often deeply savory and umami rich, so they don’t usually overlap with the dessert menu. But this recipe is an exception. Our pastry chef, Victoria Dearmond, dreamt this up after we’d made a big batch of green curry paste (a rewarding, challenging, laborious, time-consuming process that I recommend only if you enjoy challenging, laborious, time-consuming processes). I never would have imagined a curry-based sweet dish, but somehow this one just works, with the tang of yogurt, crunch of peanuts, and a sweet-savory syrup. One note: Every component of this dish is important to making it all work together. If you leave one out, the intensity of the other flavors will bully one another. Together, they all play nicely. Serve this for an impressive brunch or an unexpected dessert.

Ingredients

For the Syrup

½ cup sweet soy sauce

¼ cup honey

For the Lime Yogurt

1 cup Greek yogurt

Grated zest of 2 limes

For the Pancakes

3 cups all-purpose flour

¼ cup sugar

1 tablespoon baking powder

1½ teaspoons baking soda

½ to ¾ teaspoon kosher salt

¼ cup green curry paste

1 (5.5-ounce) can coconut milk

1½ cups milk

3 large eggs

⅓ cup melted butter, plus more for greasing the pan

1 cup roughly chopped candied or honey-roasted peanuts

Step 1

For the syrup: In a small saucepan over medium-low heat, warm the sweet soy sauce and honey and combine. Keep warm.

Step 2

For the yogurt: In a small bowl, stir the yogurt and lime zest together until combined.

Step 3

For the pancakes: Preheat the oven to warm.

Step 4

In a large bowl, combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt together. In a small bowl, whisk the curry paste into the coconut milk, then whisk in the milk. Whisk in the eggs and butter. Pour the wet mixture into the dry ingredients, using a spatula to mix until just combined (do not overmix; a few lumps are okay).

Step 5

Place a nonstick skillet over medium heat. When the pan is hot, add enough butter to coat the pan (about 1 tablespoon should do it) and then ladle in your batter, taking care to leave enough room between pancake — ½ cup of batter makes small “silver dollar”–size pancakes; cup of batter makes a standard–size pancake.

Sugar, spice, and everything…gochujang.

Thai-Style Oysters Rockefeller

The following recipe is an excerpt from Cook Like a Local

Serves 8

Gulf Coast oysters are amazing for roasting, thanks to their size and sturdiness, and I love using them to do riffs on oysters Rockefeller.

In the classic version, oysters are baked with a topping of buttery spinach, onions, anise liqueur, and garlic breadcrumbs, but this version substitutes the flavors of Thai curry, an idea born out of having leftover Maesri brand curry paste in the refrigerator one day. For this, I love to use kale, which is heartier than spinach and adds texture in lieu of the breadcrumbs.

Ingredients

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 pounds kale

4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter

1 medium yellow onion, diced

2 large shallots, diced

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons minced jalapeño

2 tablespoons minced ginger

½ cup coconut milk

3 tablespoons green curry paste

½ cup cream cheese

Juice of 1 lime

2 dozen large oysters, on the half shell

Step 1

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

Step 2

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Remove the ribs and tough stems from the kale and save for another use. (They’re great braised, or chopped small and sautéed until crisp-tender.) Add the kale leaves to the pot and cook for 1 minute, until bright green. Drain the kale and run under cold water to stop the cooking. Squeeze out any excess water from the kale and chop roughly.

Step 3

In a large saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the onion, shallot, garlic, jalapeño, and ginger, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion softens slightly and releases moisture.

Step 4

Add the coconut milk, curry paste, and cream cheese, and stir until the cream cheese has melted into a smooth sauce, 4 minutes. Stir in the kale and season to taste with salt, pepper, and the lime juice.

Step 5

Place a tablespoon of the mixture on top of each raw oyster, and arrange the oysters on a baking sheet. Bake until the topping is bubbly (start checking at 5 minutes). Serve hot.

Sugar, spice, and everything…gochujang.